15/4/24
Mon: We checked and knew the sunrise was at 6.53am this morning. Alina wanted
to watchthe sunrise here at泸沽湖,
hence she woke up earlier to go downstairs to take photos. I got up at 6.45am
but the lazy me only took shots from our balcony haha.
We had breakfast at 9am but it was meh. We went off at 9.30am but got down啊龙’s car to take a few photos at the border since we were only a few steps away from四川省.At
10.30am, we went to摩梭村落and
visited one of the local摩梭家族’s
home, stayed around for one and a half hours. Our guide, 叶子, shared stories of her marriage
and their culture. It was very fascinating.While
we stood outside their living space, we were allowed to take photos but not in
their living room because they have deities and altar at home. It was a small
place in her grandma’s bedroom. We had to step across a high sill into the
bedroom, which was also where the family gathers I think, and the grandma
apparently was the one with the highest status in their matriarchal culture.叶子was not her real name because their names were
too long and difficult for us to remember haha. They don’t have surnames too
because their names were given by the Lama or priests. She is 35 years old but
her son is already 13. Although she gave birth in 2011, her husband and her only
registered their marriage in 2021 but actually in their走婚culture, there was not a need to have wedding
certificate to prove their marriage. *As the father lives away from the
family, his family will receive either a rooster or a hen when the kid is born,
and he’d send some things back which I forgot what they were. Even many of the wife’s
family and friends will only know who the father of the children is on the day
the kid turns one month old I think, when they gather at her place and the
father will “emerge” from the crowd to put a silver bowl he made on the baby or
something to reveal his identity.*
摩梭族很看重一个男人的品格和手艺。砍伐、做银首饰都是要会的。反而家里的经济情况完全不是考虑的因素之一。I liked how both sides of the family are
financially independent in this sense, and it’s intriguing to see how the men
and women in the wife’s family will bring up the child while the father will
stay away and look after other children bore by anyone in his family.
After
that, they brought us to see silver combs and accessories they made. They tried
to prove to us they used very high percentage of silver to make accessories and
that their silver are of good quality so it would not turn black when you burn
it but only some silver powder comes off. It was very expensive though… about RMB
22 for one gram of silver, so one large comb will cost S$300+!At
2pm, we had lunch at a random玉龙饭庄.
We ordered the农家小炒肉
(RMB 38) which was okay while the紫菜鸡蛋汤 (RMB 16) was nice. Again, they
charged for rice (RMB 4) and utensils (RMB 4) too.The
sun was very hot this afternoon and we drove past金沙江again. It was a huge area. Stopped by at a
random fruit stall at 4.30pm and because there was a car accident somewhere we
were headed, 啊龙told us to
spend more time there. While we waited, Alina chose and bought three oranges at
1斤for RMB 6. They were very sweet.啊龙recommended 京巴古野山菌餐厅for dinner at 6pm, a place he frequented. We
ordered half a portion of双孢菇、黄牛肝菌、鸡纵and松茸 and
spinach in their black chicken soup base (RMB 200). It was so good albeit a bit
salty. The black chicken was shiok.Finished
dinner at 7.30pm and he drove us to丽江古城which was quite near already. The two girls
shopped around. Alina ordered this random pomelo peach tea (RMB 17) at a bubble
tea shop and it was very nice!I
also bought three of these said to be丽江’s wine (RMB 116). The普洱茶青梅酒was their most popular flavour and weirdly
enough, I also liked the osmanthus-flavoured one there, but somehow thought it
tasted like cough medicine back in Singapore lol. *I wonder if the altitude
has something to do with the change in taste though since Lijiang was at 2400m
ASL?*
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