Backdate: Yunnan Apr 2024 Day 6

14/4/24 Sun: Had to have the sumptuous in-house breakfast at茗和舒院at 8.30am! They already looked good from photos online and omg, 米线很好吃!

Booked a one-night stay at泸沽湖tonight, and we need some time for travel, so we left for泸沽湖after half an hour. We first arrived at金沙江观景台to take a few photos with the beautiful scenery while啊龙took a short break.

While we were on the way to泸沽湖, we saw彝族的红色标志建筑in a neighbouring town. *There were also经幡or风马旗 that was commonly seen in Yunnan, especially Shangri-La.* 泸沽湖is at 2692.2m ASL, average of 45m deep and does not freeze all year round. 摩梭人大概也是世界仅存的母系国度,至今保留“男不娶、女不嫁”的母系氏族文化和婚姻形态,被誉为人类家庭史和婚姻史的活化石。

At 1pm, we arrived at泸沽湖风景区. We walked over to the观景台where it was swarmed with tourists. *真的是一幅画!对岸就到四川了哦!*

On our way back, Alina and I shared a Matcha ice-cream (RMB 25) and it was yummy with melon taste, albeit later we saw the same ice-cream at丽江古城selling for only RMB 10 sia lol.

Had late lunch at 2pm. 啊龙recommended us to try the蒸汽石锅鸡半只 (RMB 134). The steaming took place on our table. I quite enjoyed the soup and veggie, but the half chicken was a bit tough. *The staff threw all parts of the chicken in, even the head and feet.* We also ordered小白菜 (RMB 16) and the plates and chopsticks costed RMB 4, so it was a total of RMB 160, including RMB 2 for a bottle of mineral water.

After an hour, we headed to the jetty for our boat ride to里务比岛. The boat journey across took about 20+ minutes minus going around the island (RMB 30 per person) once, and coming back was about 30 minutes. Went into one boat with a few other Chinese tourists at 3.20pm and gosh the water was so clear and cooling! *They no longer allow anyone to swim in there.*

They used metal ores on the boat so it looked heavy! We had two摩梭师傅on our boats and they took turns to paddle. One of them said this lake was the source of their water and it was drinkable. *We tried and it tasted “fresh” haha.* They also shared locals practise“走婚”, so there were no marriages and the kids stayed with the mum and her family, and their fathers only visit them once in a while.

The weather was almost perfect bar the glaring sun for we were at high altitude. While we went round the island, we saw “three colours” in the lake, which probably meant three different depths. It was so pretty and peaceful.

After we were dropped off on里务比岛, we had about 30 minutes to visit the temple on top of the island too. 里务比岛在泸沽湖的中南部,是摩梭人居住最早的岛屿,上面建有永宁摩梭土司府总管阿云山的灵塔还有藏传佛教寺院里务比寺,可以去祈福。我们拜拜了,也转了经筒. 转经筒在藏传佛教看来是修德的方式,是人们忏悔往事、消灾避难、修积功德的最好方式。*Oops I also learned that I should not photograph Stupas.* 

On our way back to the main island at 4.30pm, there were so many seagulls snatching the breads some of the Chinese tourists threw haha.

啊龙drove us to情人沙滩next. We were there at 5.30pm but the sky looked a bit gloomy. *Alina took a funny video of us pretending we were "lovers" walking on the beach lol.* Didn’t stay for long and we proceeded to里格观景台next where we saw one guy selling drief beef.

At 6.40pm, we checked in to暖窝客栈on the third floor and facing a lake I think? It was in小洛水村落which looked a bit ulu. The heated bed was not bad, but overall so-so. *Our room faced the East side but we could not see the sunrise well either because it was blocked by mountains.*

Ate dinner at a random eatery nearby at 7.15pm. Alina and I ordered木耳炒肉丝 (RMB 38) , 酸辣土豆丝 (RMB 16) and one tub of rice costed us RMB 4. I liked the former but the latter was a bit too mushy for me. *They also let us tried some salty tea…* 啊龙had his dinner at the same eatery too but by himself at one corner lol. He shared some BBQ-ed sweet potatoes with us.

Soon, it was late at 8+pm and dark outside. Alina and I took a short stroll along the beach area and relied on lights from my iPhone lol. *Felt quite eerie at night because there were few people around this part of the village and some resorts looked emptied for some time already.* We headed back to our room after 20 minutes or so of “exploring” haha.

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